I watched for movements on the surface, but the coastline kept drawing my gaze. A limestone pinnacle rose out of the water like a shaggy tooth, marking the habitat of the endangered dugong.

The last place I expected to find the gentle mammals was near the tourist playgrounds in the Andaman Sea, yet they occur off of Koh Libong, lending the sparsely populated island an air of mystique.

“Seeing a dugong brings luck,” the Professor said. “It will change your life. But if you don’t see them, your time has not yet come.” He paused. "The Chao Ley know. Let them show you.”

I went out with the tour the next day. Near the limestone pillar the Chao Ley skipper cut the engine. He pointed. “Dugong! You don’t see? Big!”

But my time had not yet come.

We continued to a busy shipping channel. Another longtail puttered past. Ripples appeared in its path.

Suddenly the dugong was right in front of us, a grey-brown back arching beneath our boat.

Did my life change?

Perhaps. The eco-resort seeks volunteers. I may be back.